Pico laser for melasma:
when it helps and when it worsens

How is melasma confirmed before any laser is considered?

Melasma is confirmed by its pattern and history, not by a laser test. Before pico laser is discussed, Dr Sin Yong looks for the symmetrical, map-like patches across the cheeks, forehead, upper lip or jaw that melasma usually makes, asks about pregnancy, hormonal contraception, heat exposure and family history, and examines the skin under appropriate light to judge how much pigment sits in the epidermis and how much deeper. The melasma treatment page sets out the condition; this page covers only the picosecond laser's place in it.

The reason confirmation comes first is that several brown conditions look alike and respond differently. A sun spot is a discrete deposit that a laser can fragment and that usually stays away with protection. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation follows an injury and fades on its own timeline. Hori's naevus sits in the dermis and responds to a different wavelength logic. Melasma is the one that is provoked by heat and that returns because its drivers continue, so it is the one in which a confident laser plan does the most harm.

What does pico laser actually do for melasma?

Pico laser lightens the pigment that melasma has already deposited; it does nothing to the process making it. The picosecond pulse fragments melanin mainly by a pressure effect, with less heat spreading into the surrounding skin than a longer pulse produces, and the fragments are cleared gradually. In melasma that fragmentation is used at low energy across the patch, a mode usually called toning, rather than as the spot treatment used for a sun spot.

Because the melanocytes in melasma remain overactive, any lightening is a loan rather than a settlement. The patch tends to return if photoprotection lapses, if hormones or heat continue to drive it, or if the laser itself has irritated the skin. That is why the laser is positioned as an adjunct inside a longer plan, and why the honest outcome described at consultation is management rather than removal.

“Melasma is managed, not cured. A clinic promising a cure is promising a relapse.”

Dr Sin YongOn pigmentation assessment

How are the settings chosen, and why is restraint the whole point?

Settings for melasma are chosen to deliver the least energy that still fragments pigment, because inflammation is what makes melasma worse. In practice that means a longer wavelength that epidermal melanin absorbs less strongly, a lower fluence, a larger spot that spreads energy rather than concentrating it, and intervals long enough for the skin to settle before it is treated again. A small test area may be treated first, and the response at review decides whether the plan continues.

Toning is not run on an open-ended schedule. Frequent repeated toning of the same area has been linked to pale, mottled spots that are harder to correct than the melasma was, so the plan has a defined stop point and a review rather than a standing appointment. If a patch darkens after a treatment, the sequence pauses and the skin is reviewed rather than treated over. The page on pico laser on Asian skin explains why fluence, spot size and interval matter more than the device name.

When does pico laser make melasma worse?

Pico laser makes melasma worse when it is treated as if it were a sun spot. High energy, small spots, short intervals and treatment over a fresh tan all add heat and inflammation, and inflamed melanocytes in melasma respond by producing more pigment. The darkening that follows is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation layered on melasma, which is slower to settle and more disheartening than the original patch.

Timing matters as much as settings. Melasma that is actively flaring, melasma during pregnancy or breastfeeding, and melasma in skin that has recently been peeled, resurfaced or sunburnt are all reasons to defer the laser and work on protection and topical therapy first. If the patch has a strong vascular component, with background redness, the inflammatory driver is addressed before pigment is fragmented. Where the honest answer is no laser yet, you are told so.

What is combined with pico laser in a melasma plan?

Photoprotection is the treatment; the laser is an addition to it. Melasma is driven by ultraviolet light, visible light and heat, so a broad-spectrum sunscreen, usually a tinted one that also blocks visible light, applied daily and reapplied in the open, sits at the centre of every plan. Hats, shade and avoiding hot environments such as saunas and long cooking sessions are part of the same instruction, because heat alone can deepen a patch.

Topical therapy is the second layer. Prescription creams that slow pigment production, such as hydroquinone or tretinoin, and oral tranexamic acid are options a doctor may discuss after assessing the skin and medical history; they have side effects and interactions, so they are prescribed and monitored rather than chosen from a shelf. Where low-grade inflammation is part of the picture, the R2 Glow laser, which is directed at inflammation rather than at deposited pigment, may be considered before or instead of picosecond toning. The fee for any of this is set in writing after assessment, as the how fees are quoted page explains; Singapore's rules prevent prices from being advertised.